Ivatan cuisine offers a distinct taste of Batanes, featuring dishes made from simple, fresh, and locally sourced ingredients. Visitors interested in understanding the culture of this remote province will discover that Ivatan cuisine is deeply rooted in the land and sea, utilizing a variety of root crops, seafood, and traditional cooking methods.
Tayid Lighthouse in Mahatao, Batanes
During our recent adventure to the breathtaking Batanes archipelago, made possible by the generous support of the Tourism Promotions Board, I had the privilege of joining a diverse group of travel writers, content creators, and dedicated local stakeholders. We participated in a capacity-building program aimed at enhancing the resiliency of Itbayat’s destination, a critical initiative in light of the challenges posed by typhoons affecting the islands.
While the stakeholders had their two-day program, we explored the beautiful sights and savored some of the island’s finest culinary offerings. Many must-try Batanes dishes reflect the resourceful spirit of the Ivatan people. Favorites include uved, which is made from banana pith and minced pork, and luñis, a flavorful pork dish cooked in its own fat. Seafood, such as mahi-mahi and flying fish, often appears on the table, along with special dishes like coconut crab and local lobsters.
Exploring Ivatan dishes, as highlighted in this guide to Batanes food, allows for a deeper connection with the daily lives of the Ivatans. Each dish conveys a narrative about the island’s traditions and the ingenuity of its people.
The Culinary Heritage of Ivatan Cuisine
Traditional Cooking Methods
Ivatan cooking methods developed out of a need to preserve food in Batanes’ unpredictable weather. One important practice is drying and salting, especially for fish and meat. Salted small fish, or bagun a yuyunu, are cleaned and sun-dried to last through the rainy season.
Cooking is often done over an open fire or using a clay pot. Steaming food wrapped in kabaya leaves allows the flavor of the natural wrapper to blend with the food. Smoking and fermenting are also customary, especially for pork and fish, to extend shelf life and add depth of flavor. Traditional recipes avoid heavy sauces and instead focus on the inherent taste of each ingredient.
Unique Ingredients in Ivatan Dishes
Ivatans prepare their meals with what is available in their local environment. Fish like arayu (mahi-mahi), dorado, and dibang (flying fish) feature often on their tables. Root crops, especially yam and sweet potato, are daily staples.
Gabi, or taro, is a key crop in Batanes Dishes. One special dish is vunes, made from dried taro stalks sautéed with either fish, pork, or beef. Yellow rice colored with turmeric is also common, bringing both color and earthy flavor to meals. Other notable foods include coconut crab and lobsters, which are caught only in season to protect the environment.
Influence of Batanes Geography
Batanes is a group of isolated islands, shaped by strong winds and cool, wet weather most months of the year. These islands are surrounded by the sea, so seafood forms a huge part of the local diet. The geography makes farming difficult, so Ivatans grow hardy crops like root vegetables that can survive rocky soil and harsh conditions.
Because the Ivatans need to store food for storms and long rainy seasons, they developed ways to keep food fresh without modern refrigerators. The use of drying, curing, and burying food underground is widespread. This blend of land and sea resources shapes the taste and appearance of most Ivatan dishes.
Essential Ivatan Dishes to Try
Uvud: Meatball-Like Ivatan Delicacy
Uvud is a popular Ivatan dish made from finely grated banana pith, mixed with either ground pork, fish, or beef. Locals form the mixture into small balls, which are then cooked with spices and vegetables.
The result is a soft, meatball-like delicacy with a subtle taste. Uvud is often cooked in a clear broth or with sautéed vegetables. Banana pith gives it a mild and unique flavor, while the meat adds a savory depth.
People appreciate uvud for its soft texture and gentle seasoning. It is most often served with rice. Traditional family gatherings and special occasions in Batanes usually feature this dish.
Luñis: Ivatan-Style Adobo
Luñis is often called Ivatan adobo, but it is different from the typical adobo found in the rest of the Philippines. Instead of using soy sauce, Ivatan cooks preserve pork in salt and occasionally lard. The meat is cooked slowly until tender, with the natural flavors shining through.
The flavor profile is salty and meaty, less pungent than regular adobo. Luñis is usually sliced and served with garlic rice or root crops. Because it does not have soy sauce or vinegar, the taste is milder and not sour.
People value luñis for its long shelf life, making it perfect for times when fresh ingredients are hard to get.
Vunung: Traditional Packed Lunch
Vunung is a traditional Ivatan packed meal made for farmers and fishermen who spend long hours outside. It usually consists of rice and a meat or fish dish, like uvud balls or pork, carefully wrapped in large breadfruit or kabaya leaves to keep the food fresh.
This method of packing lunch keeps the meal warm and is also eco-friendly. Vunung lets people have a complete and balanced meal using what is available locally. The meal is easy to carry and eat in the fields or while working.
Ivatans value vunung for its practicality and its ability to highlight their cooking traditions. It is still a common sight during festivals or community gatherings, showing the community’s close link to nature and local customs.
Adobo a Marida
Forest snail, carefully prepared as escargot, is simmered in a rich adobo sauce infused with a blend of vibrant spices. The sauce features deep, savory notes that harmonize the earthy flavors of the snail with the boldness of garlic, vinegar, and aromatic herbs. Each bite delivers a tender, succulent morsel, enveloped in a fragrant, zesty coating that delights the palate.
Iconic Seafood Specialties
Coconut Crab (Tatus): A Local Treasure
The coconut crab, locally known as “tatus,” is found in Batanes, the northernmost group of islands in the Philippines. This species, Birgus latro, is recognized as a threatened species in the country due to overharvesting and habitat loss. While it can still be served locally in Batanes, its export is prohibited to help protect the remaining population. Conservation efforts are ongoing, as the coconut crab is considered vulnerable and continues to face threats from human exploitation and environmental changes.
Flying Fish: Ivatan Catch of Choice
Flying fish, known locally as dibang, is a regular part of the Ivatan diet. The fish is easy to find in Batanes waters and is enjoyed fresh or preserved. One common way to serve dibang is to marinate it in vinegar and citrus juice, then mix with ginger, onion, and salt for a tangy and refreshing dish.
Ivatan families also grill or fry flying fish. Its versatility makes it ideal for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Many restaurants offer kinilaw (similar to ceviche) with flying fish as their signature starter. This reflects the importance of flying fish in local cuisine and daily meals.
Fresh Batanes Lobsters
Batanes is also known for its lobsters, which are prized for their sweet meat and freshness. Unlike in other places where lobster is a luxury, in Batanes, it is often found in home kitchens and small eateries. Locals prepare lobsters by steaming or grilling with simple seasonings to let the natural flavor stand out.
A popular way to enjoy Batanes lobster is with a light dip, such as vinegar or calamansi juice. Sometimes, it is served with rice and vegetables as a comfort meal. The best time to try Batanes lobsters is during the peak fishing season when they are abundant and affordable.
Lalaven a Amung
Succulent, fresh raw fish delicately marinated in zesty calamansi juice, enhanced with aromatic minced ginger and finely chopped onions, creating a vibrant and flavorful dish that tantalizes the palate.
Pawpaw
Experience the rich flavors of traditional salted and sun-dried flying fish, also known as long tom fish. This culinary treasure captures the essence of time-honored preservation methods, where each fish is carefully seasoned and sun-kissed, enhancing its natural taste and texture. The result is a savory delicacy with a delightful crunch, perfect for elevating a variety of dishes or enjoying on its own.
Hearty Vegetable and Root Crop Dishes
Gabi-Based Recipes
Gabi, also called taro, is a staple in Ivatan cooking. This root crop grows well in the cool, rainy climate of Batanes. Ivatan cooks use gabi in soups, stews, and simple boiled dishes.
A popular dish is vunes, made from dried gabi stalks. The stalks are soaked, cooked with small amounts of pork, and seasoned lightly. This dish is usually served with steamed rice. The unique flavor of gabi blends well with salty meats and fish. Its soft texture after cooking makes it filling and satisfying.
Some Ivatan families also prepare gabi leaves in coconut milk. This creamy, mild dish is both comforting and easy to digest. Rich in fiber and vitamins, gabi-based foods are central to daily meals in Batanes.
Tamiduk
A refreshing salad featuring tender young fiddlehead fern, known as Pako leaves, delicately mixed with vibrant slices of ripe tomatoes. Drizzled with a tangy vinaigrette, this dish offers a delightful blend of earthy flavors and crisp textures, making it a perfect accompaniment to any meal.
Other Seasonal Vegetables
Aside from gabi, Ivatan people cook with a variety of local vegetables. These include sweet potatoes, ube (purple yam), and cassava. Root crops are a main source of carbohydrates, especially when rice is scarce.
A variety of greens, such as pechay (bok choy), and wild ferns are picked fresh and used in stir-fries, soups, or as sides. Ivatans also enjoy seaweed soups, which are light but rich in minerals. In most cases, these vegetables are prepared simply, letting their natural flavors stand out.
For special occasions, dishes might include uvod, which are small balls made from banana trunk mixed with minced meat and vegetables. These hearty vegetables and root crops are cooked based on what is in season, making each meal reflect the changing harvests in Batanes.
Nipasu a Wakay
Nipasu a Wakay is a soul-soothing dish that showcases the rich culinary tradition of the Ivatan people. This delightful yam preparation is simmered in a luscious coconut milk base, creating a velvety texture that envelops each bite. The fragrant aroma of the coconut melds beautifully with the earthy sweetness of the yams, offering a taste of authentic Ivatan home cooking that warms both the heart and the palate. It’s not just a meal; it’s an aromatic journey to the islands, filled with comfort and tradition.
Ivatan Rice Varieties and Signature Sides
Turmeric Rice: Nihaman A Paray
One of the most well-known rice varieties in Batanes is turmeric rice, locally called supas. This dish uses turmeric, which gives the rice a yellow color and a mildly earthy flavor. Turmeric rice is often served during fiestas and family gatherings, making it a special part of Ivatan celebrations.
People usually cook this rice with garlic and sometimes add pork for more savory flavor. It is popular not just for its taste but also because turmeric is believed to have health benefits. Ivatan turmeric rice pairs well with fish, pork, and vegetable dishes, making it a flexible choice on the table.
Local Ivatan Drinks
Palek
Sugarcane wine, a delightful elixir, is artfully fermented in age-old clay pots, allowing the rich, earthy flavors to develop fully. The process captures the essence of tradition, as the natural fermentation creates a unique blend of sweetness and complexity, offering a taste that is both refreshing and deeply rooted in cultural heritage.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are some traditional dishes to try while visiting Batanes?
Travelers should try uved, which is made from banana pith and ground meat. Other popular choices include luñis, which is pork cooked with salt and stored in jars, and vunes, a dish made from dried gabi stalks.
Turmeric rice is often paired with seafood or meat dishes because of its bright color and mild flavor.
Where can I find the best examples of Ivatan food on the islands?
For the best examples of Ivatan food in Basco, Batanes, several restaurants are well-known for their authentic local cuisine:
In Basco:
- Pension Ivatan Hometel and Restaurant is highly recommended for Ivatan cuisine, offering signature dishes like uved, lunis, and vunes. Reservations and pre-orders are suggested due to its popularity.
- Vunong Dinette is another top spot, known for serving traditional Ivatan meals, often presented in the signature “vunong” (banana leaf wrap) style.
- Octagon Bed & Dine is also popular for their local dishes and overall dining experience.
In Itbayat:
- Dining options are more limited and basic compared to Basco. Most visitors enjoy Ivatan food at local homestays, small carinderias, or by arranging meals with their accommodation hosts. There are no major standalone restaurants, so it’s best to coordinate with your host for home-cooked Ivatan specialties, which often include dishes like uved, coconut crab (when in season and available), and root crop-based meals.
Tips:
- Always inquire ahead about availability, especially for seasonal or specialty dishes like coconut crab, as regulations may affect supply.
- Pre-ordering is common and recommended for a full Ivatan set meal experience.
What ingredients are commonly used in Batanes Ivatan cuisine?
Ivatan dishes use ingredients like banana or gabi pith, pork, fish, coconut, and root crops. Turmeric is common for adding color to rice, while seaweed, lobsters, and coconut crab are also used in local recipes.
Which Batanes dishes are suitable as take-home gifts or pasalubong?
Dried flying fish, called dibang, is a favorite souvenir. Kamote chips and locally made treats are also good choices to bring home.
These items pack well and have a longer shelf life.
Can you recommend a local dish for seafood lovers in Batanes?
Seafood lovers will enjoy dishes made with flying fish, lobsters, and coconut crabs. Dibang, a type of flying fish, is served grilled or dried. Payi, or lobster, is common on the islands and often cooked simply to bring out its natural flavor.
What unique cooking methods are part of Ivatan culinary tradition?
The Ivatans often cook meat with just rock salt and preserve it in jars, as seen in luñis. They also sun-dry fish and root crops, helping to keep food safe during storms. Food is usually prepared using fresh, simple methods to match the local climate and lifestyle.
Batanes Travel Tour Packages You Should Try
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